the colours you described are from a drop wire which is the wire used to run from the pole to the property, alternately if you have extention wiring which needs to run outside then the drop wire is the best option as its fully resilliant to all weathers
Normal internal wiring would degrade if fitted externaly, the white type in particular, the black is semi uv stable.
As roseway correctly stated if the wires are connected to the back of the detatchable face plate the it's extention wiring which you can touch, (if its connected to the screw terminals on the back of the main part of the nte then it's bt wiring only)
If it's been used as extention wiring then the normal way it's connected is
orange to no.2
white to no.5
green to no.3
If any one is about to mess about with internal wiring then always check what wires have been connected in which idc before pulling anything out. Dispite what colour should typicaly go in a particular idc for various reasons this dosn;t always run true. 2 good tips are either if you can take a didgi photo before removing any wires or if there's enough slack, leave the wires in the idc but cut the wires close to the idc, so when you come to reconect, you have a reference to go by.
Other things to watch for.
When inserting a wire into an idc be it either with the cheep plastic inserter or the full blown one. make sure the tool is at right angles to the back of the plate, and support the plate in such a way it stays perpendicular as you push the tool home.
Do not terminate more than 3 wires in any one idc.
Trim of any surplus if using the basic plastic tool, you shouldn't have more than 2-3mm of wire sicking out of the other side of the idc.
Avoid coiling up and surplus wire in round loops. to tydy any up, loop surplus round two fingers and flatten the loop so the wire goes side to side rather than round and round.
Also definately avoid coiling any spare wire backround the outer insulation of the cable, it's an old neat practice but with todays data streams this causes more problems, if you see any cable with spare wires wrapped back round a cable then undo it and use the above method of tidying the surplus.
If your fitting a new cable, always give your self twice as much hanging out of the socket as you think you'll need before you cut the cable.
cut lenghtways along the outer insulation for about 10mm along from where you cut it, open out the outer insulation, you should find a cotton cord amonst the wires inside, seperate this out Try to get the cord to one side of the bundle of wires rather than pulling it in between the inner wires.
Get perferably long nosed pliers (if ordinary pliers then you may need to snip the outer insulation back further than 10mm) twist the cord in your fingers so it's well spun, grip the end of the cord in the pliers and twirl the pliers so the cord wraps round the end of pliers a couple of times. then holding the cable in one hand pull the cord down the cable, you'll find it tears through the outer sleave and you can keep going until you've exposed enough if the internal wire that you need, and snip the waste outer insulation away BUT MAKE SURE YOU'VE FISHED OUT ALL THE INTERNAL WIRES BEFORE YOU DO SO.
You need idealy about 30-40mm of outer insulation in the back of the socket minimum, give youself about 140mm of the wires inside beyond this to play with, if you've loads more then now snip the surplus off.
When attaching the cable between the sockets run the cable along the top of skirting boards or if you have moulded boards you can run the cable along a recess so it dissapears more. with door frames, go the long way round up the side of the frame and along the top. but before you start attaching, run the able along the whole route particuarly to make sure you get the cable behind and pipes and the like.
Avoid running the cable under carpet behind carpet grippers and definately across main foot traffic areas such as across the floor at a door way guaranteed to cause a fault at some time (had a fault yesterday, the line sounded and tested ok to the master socket, less than 2m away the extention wiring ran under an aluminium strip which gripped the kitchen lino, thats where the fault was. I fear the end user will get a charge from her service provider, ouch!)
If cleating a cable to a brick wall, ain the nail of the cleat just where the motar meets brick so the nail goes between as ths is the easyest place to nail a cleat in. If it's pebbledashed good luck, hope you got lots of patience. here it's often better to get something called pin plugs, bit like wall plugs for screws but much smaller and simpler, just drill and hammer them in, trust me it's a lot lot easyer (same with exceptionaly hard brick/motar)
For a horizontal run of cable one cleat every 300mm (one hammer lenght) for a vertical run one cleat every 450mm (1 1/2 hammer lenghts)
If drilling through an exterior wall then drill from inside to out, once the drill has started tilt the drill so you drill out at a downward angle of about 15 degress (one hour sweep on a watch face) to help prevent water ingress, back off the pressure on the drill when you think your about to go through the far side other wise you can blow a brick. silicone the cable outside after
AND MOST IMPORTANLY WHEN ANSWERING A PHONE CALL MID POST, READ BACK WHAT POST YOUR ANSWERING TO OTHER WISE YOU FIND YOU'VE WAFFLED WAR AND PEACE AND GONE OFF TOPIC WHILE YOUR AT IT
can't be bothered to delete it, might be handy to some one some time
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Topic: Fitting NTE5 faceplate - unusual colour codes on extension wiring (Read 6698 times)