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Author Topic: re-locating "master" socket  (Read 1280 times)

chenks

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Re: re-locating "master" socket
« Reply #15 on: July 16, 2018, 01:48:03 PM »

From those last photos, your house looks different to your neighbour's - it looks like there is some kind of junction box (the black tube), where the drop wire enters.  Have you had a peek inside there?

It looks like there would be enough slack on the drop wire to go straight through that wall, below the upstairs window.  You would then be able to cut out two junction boxes before your master socket (the external one, and the one on your window frame).

i've not touched that and don't really want to be tampering with anything outside of the house.
here is a close up look at that though (photo taken from window above it).

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burakkucat

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Re: re-locating "master" socket
« Reply #16 on: July 16, 2018, 02:03:42 PM »

That is a gel-filed external joint closure. Basically the two wires of the pairs from the two cables are joined with gel-crimps and then the gel-crimps are enclosed in a gel-filled enclosure. Double water-proofing!

If Openreach ever needed to do anything with their wiring, pre the NTE5, that joint would be opened.

As for opening the paint-encrusted BT52A (the BT stands for Block Terminal), gently scrape out the paint in the screw-head slot, insert a screwdriver that completely fits the screw-head slot and then gently tap the end of the screwdriver with a hammer. Be firm but gentle and you should be able to easily open it.
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DaveC

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Re: re-locating "master" socket
« Reply #17 on: July 16, 2018, 05:36:28 PM »

my current connection stats are

Max:    Upstream rate = 25631 Kbps, Downstream rate = 84468 Kbps
Bearer: 0, Upstream rate = 19999 Kbps, Downstream rate = 80000 Kbps

i'm lucky that the cab is about 40-50 feet away, and the pole in my back garden.

I'm curious to know what others think, but if you are so close to the cabinet, I would expect much higher max rates than you are achieving. 
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Ixel

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Re: re-locating "master" socket
« Reply #18 on: July 16, 2018, 05:39:10 PM »

I'm curious to know what others think, but if you are so close to the cabinet, I would expect much higher max rates than you are achieving.

Could be crosstalk?
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chenks

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Re: re-locating "master" socket
« Reply #19 on: July 16, 2018, 05:40:35 PM »

isn't it academic though? it's not an achievable rate anyway.
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johnson

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Re: re-locating "master" socket
« Reply #20 on: July 16, 2018, 05:51:24 PM »

Huh?

He has max rates, this will not improve actual sync just attainable... so better for things in the future.

Where did you get that chenks is trying to improve his rate from...?  ???
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DaveC

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Re: re-locating "master" socket
« Reply #21 on: July 16, 2018, 05:56:03 PM »

isn't it academic though? it's not an achievable rate anyway.

Yes, completely academic.  As I said, I'm just curious.
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chenks

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Re: re-locating "master" socket
« Reply #22 on: July 18, 2018, 11:55:23 AM »

As for opening the paint-encrusted BT52A (the BT stands for Block Terminal), gently scrape out the paint in the screw-head slot, insert a screwdriver that completely fits the screw-head slot and then gently tap the end of the screwdriver with a hammer. Be firm but gentle and you should be able to easily open it.

it opened fairly easily, so it should be plain sailing from there on.

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burakkucat

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Re: re-locating "master" socket
« Reply #23 on: July 18, 2018, 06:45:45 PM »

Will you be using a BT80 to replace that BT52A?  :-\

You can get just a BT80 case, without the internal PCB (with screw terminals (for the "service-feed"/"lead-in") and IDCs for the internal CW1308 cable connection), which will allow small gel-crimps to be used to make the connections.
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RealAleMadrid

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Re: re-locating "master" socket
« Reply #24 on: July 18, 2018, 07:06:36 PM »

I did say earlier in the thread that it would look pretty nasty inside. There's no way I would use those screw terminals. :)
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licquorice

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Re: re-locating "master" socket
« Reply #25 on: July 18, 2018, 07:26:05 PM »

It looks absolutely fine, no corrosion at all just a few cobwebs.
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burakkucat

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Re: re-locating "master" socket
« Reply #26 on: July 18, 2018, 07:33:13 PM »

I'm wondering about the "lead-in". It looks, to my eye, like the old cadmium-copper "figure-of-eight" drop cable. Perhaps that explains the external "sausage" . . . a new drop was run from the pole top but the person performing the task did not want to disturb the length that was, perhaps, embedded within an older rough-cast surface on the house?  :-\
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chenks

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Re: re-locating "master" socket
« Reply #27 on: July 18, 2018, 07:47:13 PM »

Will you be using a BT80 to replace that BT52A?  :-\

nope i'm leaving it "as is".
simply removing the bottom cable and replacing it with new CW1308.
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burakkucat

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Re: re-locating "master" socket
« Reply #28 on: July 18, 2018, 07:50:08 PM »

simply removing the bottom cable and replacing it with new CW1308.

Understood.
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chenks

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Re: re-locating "master" socket
« Reply #29 on: July 18, 2018, 07:50:40 PM »

I'm wondering about the "lead-in". It looks, to my eye, like the old cadmium-copper "figure-of-eight" drop cable. Perhaps that explains the external "sausage" . . . a new drop was run from the pole top but the person performing the task did not want to disturb the length that was, perhaps, embedded within an older rough-cast surface on the house?  :-\

i'm not sure what was done at the time of the external work, but i do know that previously the cable was attached to the external of the house and fed in (just like the satellite cable currently is).

then the HA came along and installed external wall insulation and buried the telephone cable underneath it, and i assume left the top part hanging out so that BT could along and reconnect it once the work was done.

incidentally the aerial cable was also buried underneath the rough casting. they didn't have the foresight (or couldn't be bothered) to remove the cables first.
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