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[trevorsams]

Hi Guys,

Need some help with regard to above sockets.
We (Hubby and I) have just moved into a new set of flats. We are on the ground floor and have a built-in Master socket (exactly the same as the MK2 short of the RJ45/RJ11 plug) in the lounge and a secondary plain phone point/socket in office, all the cables are behind the walls, haven't got a clue if they ran them around the flat or over top of ceiling. Personally I'd prefer to pull a cat6 through to the extension but I don't know what they've done.  We only have adsl and adsl2+ max mbps of 6, although the reality seems to be less than 3.5.  But that's a story for another day.

Note: I have as yet Not opened either sockets to have look, but I have bought the new replacement sockets, just want to be sure I know exactly what I'm doing before I start using any tools in anger. brace yourself Bruce

On the MK2:  Is this hard wire connection (yellow arrow) only for vdsl?

As the extension cable is built in and I Assume is behind the final plate on the Master socket, will I be allowed to even touch it or is that also BT territory?

How do I find the extension cable in the socket (Master) in order to hard wire it (assuming I can for adsl)?
omg, I'm not sure I'm on the right track...

If I can do it, how will this affect the LJ4F which I intend to fit in the office?

Or... Not bother with the MK2 hard wiring because it will make absolutely zero difference, and just disable the bell wire and only install the LJ4F on the extension sans bell wire?

 

Thanks for taking the time to read, all help/ advice appreciated 

[benji09]

 
     I personally, if in your position, I would try the idiot approach first. Disconnect the bell wire at the master socket, and plug the broadband filters in the USED phone sockets, and plug your router in at the extension socket. I know somebody will see what I have said, and suggest that the extension wiring may not be very good for broadband as it might not be twisted pairs. But any other modifications would require extra wiring, and with your concrete floors  there would be problems hiding it.  So I think it would be worth trying the easy option first ! 

[burakkucat]

Welcome to the Kitz forum. 

I'm not sure where to begin . . . but begin I must or this post will be pointless. 

With newly built flats, there is usually a dedicated room into which all the services arrive. In such a room may be an Openreach Distribution Point, from which cables "fan out" to each flat. Assuming the presence of such a room & DP and hoping that the cables to each flat have been installed correctly by the builder, then the first thing to examine is the wiring behind both sockets in your flat. If you could unscrew each in turn and then photograph the rear of the sockets, so that the colours of each wire and the terminals to which the wires are connected can be clearly seen, that would be the best first step.

Am I correct in assuming that you wish to connect the modem/router to the second socket (in the office)? If yes and depending upon what your photographs revel, then I have a possible plan of action. 

[trevorsams]

Thanks for the warm welcome,

Yes, the router and modem are set up in the office, preferably, they will continue to live in the office, 2 computers attached to ac66u via ethernet cables - need this for large media/ graphics files and because wifi was dropping out at least 5 times a day when we first moved in, we bought an ac66u and HG612, hooked it up with some help from Kitz and the good folk at thinkbroadband, we haven't had the need to reset the wifi once. Yay!

You are correct the OR/BT distribution box and cables come into and fan out from a broom/utilities cupboard as seen here.

As requested:

Pic of Master socket.

Pic of Secondary socket, this surprised me, I really really expected the bell wire to be connected.

Must say, compared to our last property this is a really neat job. :thumbs up:

Looking at the master it seems the secondary cable is attached at the rear of the socket - what now? It's on their side of the wall!? Should it be this way? Is this okay?

Looking forward to further comments.

Thanks again!

@benji09, So far I have Sky cables running across the front of the building, running an external cable all the way around the flat to the rear won't really be that much of an issue considering what it's like right now. Running it externally would be a shorter run too, the flat isn't open plan and chasing it round the rooms would be a nightmare and yukly!

[burakkucat]

Thank you for that view of the utilities cupboard. It is unfortunate that the service cables to each flat have been run so close to the three-phase mains supply. At least they cross at right-angles.

Moving on to the picture of the NTE5/A . . . or more specifically the IDCs and wires on the lower front removable face-plate. It looks to me as if the blue/white stripe, orange/white stripe and white/blue stripe wires are connected. Unfortunately, from that picture, I am uncertain of the IDCs to which those wires are connected. 

Just a moment . . . Having now had a rummage in my grotto for a spare NTE5/A face-plate, I believe the wires are connected as follows:

• white/blue stripe wire to IDC2
• orange/white strip wire to IDC3
• blue/white strip wire to IDC5

Please confirm my assumption.

Now the good news. The lower front face-plate of the NTE5/A (and the wires connected there to) are "yours". They are the feed to the other socket in your office. So everything is looking good.

Your first task is to gently pull the orange/white stripe wire out of IDC3 and carefully tuck it away with the other unused wires from that cable into the backing box.

Your second task is to take the new LJ4F into your office, snip the cable tie holding the cable onto the existing socket and pull the two wires out of the IDCs. Trim off the ends of those two wires (just enough to remove the "used" bits) and with an insertion tool (hopefully you have one!) insert the white/blue stripe wire into IDC2 and the blue/white stripe wire into IDC5. Fix the cable to the strain relief with a cable tie and fit the socket into the backing box.

The third task is to return to the NTE5/A and temporarily re-fit the lower front face-plate. Test the telephone socket at the NTE5/A and the at the LJ4F in the office and confirm that both are working.

Your fourth and final task is to return to the NTE5/A, remove the lower front face-plate (you didn't fit the screws? . . . I did say temporarily, above    )  and gently remove both wires from the lower front face-plate. Fit the SSFP (Service Specific Face Plate) to the NTE5/A and then, after trimming off the "used" bits, connect the white/blue stripe wire to IDC2 and the blue/white stripe wire to IDC5 of the SSFP. (The two IDCs to which that yellow arrow points in the illustration with your original post.) Now fit the lower front face-plate to the SSFP, using the longer screws that should have been provided.

The job is now done. Both telephone sockets are now filtered and you have an xDSL socket available in the office for your modem/router.

Please let me know if anything is not clear. It is far easier to do than it is to clearly explain. 

[Ezzer]

I cant see the photos from the PC I'm using but one thing to consider with internal wiring

I found that if the internal wiring branches out then some where a cable connects 2 or more extention sockets already connected to the nte. So forming a loop. the errors usualy increased. by disconnecting one of the cables so everything is just daisy chained or networked like a spider/tree pattern, things improved.

[NewtronStar]

I cant see the photos from the PC I'm using but one thing to consider with internal wiring

so everything is just daisy chained or networked like a spider/tree pattern, things improved.

Like this http://www.copper.org/applications/telecomm/consumer/com_wire_home.html

[Ezzer]

Thats a good site, it has some good pointers there. If you have a long run close and parrallel to a mains run try to get a subtle zig zag to the phone cable so it get gradually further then closer to the power cable (obviously if its in an unseen area)
If running a cable in the attic, consider pinning it higher up the rafters than the beas you walk on. Often you have a horizontal support across the rafters about a meter up. This provides a nice hidden run for the cable, away from power cables for lights and less venerable to being stepped on or Boxes dumped on top of. Also easyer to install and less having to move itchy mineral wool insulation.

If you have a moulded skirting board and or door frame. you can be crafty and pin the cable in such away that it really begins to look like part of the shape of the wood. If you do it too well you can spend a few hours getting a beautifully done long run from one end of the house to the other only for the line to go dead mid test because the chippies mate has just sawn through the skirting not realising part of it was the cable you've just fitted 

[Black Sheep]

Blaming the chippies, Ezz ?? Sure it wasn't staple rash mate ?? Ha ha ...

[Ezzer]

I was standing in the kitchen with the customer there. Butt phone in hand, "this number is defined as  zero  one three sev........" ?

Chippies mate in the hall way, back to the wall and saw by his side cutting into the skirting board. the older guy steps through the front door. looks at the saw, looks at me, looks confused, looks at the saw again and says something I cant repeat on here.

I very rarely swear, fortunately I was gritting my teeth too much to say anything rash.

[Ezzer]

OH, and the fact the customer was blind didnt have any bearing on it. In fact I remember how elegant her house was. It was an awfull route, but I was quite proud of that one.

[NewtronStar]

If running a cable in the attic, consider pinning it higher up the rafters than the beas you walk on. Often you have a horizontal support across the rafters about a meter up. This provides a nice hidden run for the cable, away from power cables for lights and less venerable to being stepped

Thats a good point Ezzer and I think this could help me as I use that loft cable for the Data socket on fttc ,we just through that cable up in the loft many years ago when we had the 512K modem now it's buried under 13 inchs of insulation