Kitz Forum
Computers & Hardware => Other Technologies & Hardware => Topic started by: banger on February 14, 2021, 11:53:33 PM
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Got a TP Link Kaso Smart bulb and after a day it died. It was easy to set up and switch on and off and dim but while having a nap and coming back it was off after being on. Tried several power on off at the switch but nada. So ordered a smart switch instead as reading reviews all the smart bulbs on Amazon seem to have similar problems and the switch seems to have the least problems and lowest 1 star feedback. Anyone got one of these devices? I have now ordered a TP Link TAPO switch.
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I've had LIFX bulbs for many years, I've had some fail after a matter of months (they were very good at replacing them) but most have lasted years. Not close to the 25 year they originally claimed mind you, the PSUs just run too hot for that.
Their latest models they seem to have reduced the wattage a little and run cooler, not had a dusk/dawn model fail yet. I extensively use the dimming and Alexa to turn them off in bed so I honestly can't like without them now.
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I don't have the TP Link system, but have been using the Philips Hue bridge and lamps for a number of years and they have proved to be very reliable with no failures. I also use the motion/light sensor. I have programed (https://developers.meethue.com/develop/get-started-2/) the hub extensively (which was great fun!) to control the system eg. lights coming on at a preset time before sunset or when the daylight fades during bad weather, it is really quite sophisticated. Also has an Alexa skill.
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Thanks peeps. I like the look of the LIFX bulbs and advantage of not needing a hub? I will give this Tp-Link plug/switch for a while then decide.
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I got a few bits and pieces for smart home use, mostly for intergating with Amazon Alexa and Google Home voice control :
- A couple of TP-Link smart bulbs, two surveillance cameras and a plug switch, I find the Kasa app to be a bit clunky but the TP-Link integration with Amazon Alexa works well compared to others. The Kasa app also runs really well under Bluestacks on my PC which is very handy at times
- A Broadlink RM4 Pro smart hub for controlling infra red and RF devices, works better than the Logitech Harmony hub at a fraction of the price
- Two SONOFF Basic R3 Smart WiFi Switches, they work really well and are very cheap (£10 each)
- I also have my surveillance cameras linked to my Amazon account so i can view them
In my opinion / experience the one to AVOID is the Logitech Harmony hub, its horribly expensive, hard to setup and didn;t work reliably or integrate well for me. It interesting because I usually find Logitech products to be pretty good, not this one though!
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Thanks peeps. I like the look of the LIFX bulbs and advantage of not needing a hub? I will give this Tp-Link plug/switch for a while then decide.
I will say they can be a bit unstable at times. The app frequently sees the bulbs as offline yet Alexa will still control them. Sometimes they DO go offline, tends to be if I fiddle with the WiFi AP they can crash needing a power cycle. But the vast majority of the time they are fine.
They were much more reliable for me when they supported plain LAN control without tying into the cloud, but then that was before I had Alexa so I'd need cloud control anyway. But I think in that respect, hub based units are possibly more stable as you have one point connecting to the cloud rather than every individual bulb.
What really bothers me about all these smart devices is if they ever decide to drop support, they become useless unless they have a LAN API. Although with LIFX they will at least default to white light bulbs by default so not entirely useless in that scenario.
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Thanks peeps. I like the look of the LIFX bulbs and advantage of not needing a hub?
Most smart home devices that need a hub are Zigbee devices.
A decent Zigbee hub will do all other Zigbee devices across a range of manufacturers.
If you don't already have a Zigbee hub/devices then I wouldn't recommend getting a hub for a single device.
The main benefit of Zigbee is when you use lots of devices. They mesh together to extend range and are very low powered.
I have 2 LIFX WiFi RGB bulbs. I love them.
They never lose their 2.4Ghz connection to my router.
I also have a couple Yeelight WiFi bulbs that work perfectly (Yeelight are owned by Xiaomi).
I watch a guy on YouTube who reviews a lot of smart home devices. He has a few reviews of Lifx bulbs and LED strips.
https://youtu.be/wxwdEznPRW4
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I have Hive because of my heating. The hive hub will control both Hive and Phillips bulbs. Think I have 7 Hive bulbs of various types and a few other lamps and LED strip lighting that use a switch. I then also have lots of other switches and devices connected to Echo/Alexa. I would eventually like all lights connected, but I have a couple of lights that have several GU9s and a lot of GU10s in the kitchen. Hive do GU10s but it would be expensive to replace them all... plus they are not as bright.
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I have a TP Link smart switch, as is common with these, they only work on 2.4Ghz WiFi, and the TP Link one's (seems to only) work with IP address's in the 192.168 range!
I spent age's trying to figure out why I could not connect to my Fritzbox 7590 IP range 192.178, gave up and bought a TCP Smart home switch which worked first time.
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I have a TP Link smart switch, as is common with these, they only work on 2.4Ghz WiFi, and the TP Link one's (seems to only) work with IP address's in the 192.168 range!
I spent age's trying to figure out why I could not connect to my Fritzbox 7590 IP range 192.178, gave up and bought a TCP Smart home switch which worked first time.
I am not sure that is correct regarding only working in the 192.168 range. I have currently 5 TP Link smart plugs, 1 smart power strip (used for xmas lights) and 1 smart bulb all running along with my other IoT devices in their own VLAN with the IP address range of 20.0.0.
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my other IoT devices in their own VLAN with the IP address range of 20.0.0.
Did you mean 10.0.0 as 20.0.0 are Microsoft registered IP addresses not private LAN ones, you shouldn't be using them.
Source: whois.arin.net
IP Address: 20.0.0.1
Name: MSFT
Handle: NET-20-0-0-0-1
Registration Date: 18/10/17
Range: 20.0.0.0-20.31.255.255
Org: Microsoft Corporation
Org Handle: MSFT
Address: One Microsoft Way
City: Redmond
State/Province: WA
Postal Code: 98052
Country: United States
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So got a Tp-link plug today. So far so good, it switches on and off which is all I wanted.
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Did you mean 10.0.0 as 20.0.0 are Microsoft registered IP addresses not private LAN ones, you shouldn't be using them.
Sorry yes, I must have had a finger slip. I really should proofread what I have written when replying. Sorry for the confusion and thanks for correcting it!
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:-[ So i'm in the dog house as well, Ok so i've revisited this TP Link HS100 problem again ???
I tried a new tactic by holding the reset button in for 10 seconds while plugged in, (did this before! lost count of how many times) and low an behold the Kasa app found the HS100.
Ip address is not 192.178 - what was I thinking of :blush: should be 192.168.178.whatever.
Sorry yes, I must have had a finger slip. I really should proofread what I have written when replying. Sorry for the confusion and thanks for correcting it!
and me as well... Sorry all
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Sorry yes, I must have had a finger slip. I really should proofread what I have written when replying. Sorry for the confusion and thanks for correcting it!
I'm terrible for it, in fact it seems I HAVE to post before my brain will proofread correctly so forums where you can't edit your posts are useless to me.
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I have the same problem Alex, I proof read the preview, post it and then notice the errors and have to edit it.
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I have the same problem Alex, I proof read the preview, post it and then notice the errors and have to edit it.
Same here, only spot errors after posting despite proof reading first. ???
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Same here, only spot errors after posting despite proof reading first. ???
Its probably normal, thus why hiring dedicated proof readers was a thing. I've seen enough mistakes in news articles, especially the BBC who tend to open quote then never close it again.
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I think its just that your brain knows what you mean/meant to write so you just read it back as you meant to write it, rather than how you did.
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That's definitely a factor. I've read what I posted three times before, then realised what I'm reading in my head is not what I wrote.
Especially common is missing three letter words like "the" in the middle of a sentence. Its a known thing your brain is great at filling in gaps, but its problematic if you're trying to write a coherent sentence.
And I just did another one there, I wrote coherence instead of coherent but I caught it before posting. ???
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Proof reading, I should be better at this, being Ex print trade including pre press. I lost count of how many times I spotted syntax/spelling/etc :blush: when your on the press it's all you can see.
Any how I digress, back to business. The TP Link app has two places where you can check the current Time Zone in use, mine was using America/Dawson in the App settings ??? and London/Gmt on the device settings ??? ???
I found this anomaly whilst trying to work out why the on/off times were a bit askew.
The App claims to Automagically pick up the Time zone from the Mobile phone! I've never been to Dawson!.. Been to Vancouver :)
The other Smart switch I use 'TCP' their App has only one entry for time zone management.
Forgot to add the time zone setting shown in the app was correct but wrong in the info part ??? ??? so you need to manually select somewhere else to correct the info part.