Kitz Forum
Broadband Related => Telephony Wiring + Equipment => Topic started by: jasjeet on April 02, 2017, 08:56:01 PM
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Im thinking of relocating my modem and router in to a central location in the house, but will need to extend the master socket to do this.
I want the least mess, no micro filters etc.
So ive figured out i can use CW1308 cable to extend the A/B terminals on the BT SSFP MK3 master socket.
On the extension side, what socket should i use? Ideally i just want an RJ11 filtered socket that i can hook up the CW1308 incoming pair.
Connection is Sky Fibre 40mb.
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So ive figured out i can use CW1308 cable to extend the A/B terminals on the BT SSFP MK3 master socket.
CW1308 or Cat5e cable, the choice is yours. You will connect the cable to the two IDCs inside the front of the SSFP.
On the extension side, what socket should i use? Ideally i just want an RJ11 filtered socket that i can hook up the CW1308 incoming pair.
You should now get into the habit of calling it a data socket and not an extension socket. ;)
Your shopping list should be --
- one single-gang surface mount back box (https://www.run-it-direct.co.uk/euro-faceplates-backboxes/22mmbackbox/)
- one single face-plate for a snap-in module (https://www.run-it-direct.co.uk/euro-faceplates-backboxes/singleeurofaceplate/)
- one snap-in RJ11 module (https://www.run-it-direct.co.uk/bt-euro-modules/RJ11module/)
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Thanks! Exactly what I'm looking for. Will this not need a filter?
My CW1308 length will be around 6-7m. I'm also buying 100m of cat6, should I just use cat6 rather than buy a seperate roll of cw1308?
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You can use Cat6, but it's much thicker and stiffer than CW1308, and consequently more difficult to install neatly.
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Thanks! Exactly what I'm looking for. Will this not need a filter?
No, you will not be using the socket for telephony, only data.
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I take it that it isn't an option to leave your modem or router where it is and run Ethernet into the centre if the house instead, to an access point? You would be keeping your dsl signal healthier that way, but not an issue if the signal is very strong and the cable run very interference-free. Or split into a modem plus a router, and leave the modem where it is, close to the master socket? You've probably ruled that out as running Ethernet cable is too much of a pain? Or else could use a wireless Lan link to another access point in the centre of the house.
I have a modem and a (wireful-only) router very very near to the master socket (modem to wallsocket is 0.25m = obsessed) and run a long Ethernet cable to a WAP in the centre of the house now, for much improved wireless.
It's just that if you can run CW1308, then you could possibly run ethernet. Cat6 can be awkward to run as you have to be so extremely careful with the bends, it's sooo stiff and you'll knacker it if you try too hard. I use the 'minimum radius of a CD' as a general guide. I am running cat7 all over the place now in case I can ever get a cheap 10G switch going (for internal LAN traffic, obviously).
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I take it that it isn't an option to leave your modem or router where it is and run Ethernet into the centre if the house instead, to an access point? You would be keeping your dsl signal healthier that way, but not an issue if the signal is very strong and the cable run very interference-free. Or split into a modem plus a router, and leave the modem where it is, close to the master socket? You've probably ruled that out as running Ethernet cable is too much of a pain? Or else could use a wireless Lan link to another access point in the centre of the house.
I have a modem and a (wireful-only) router very very near to the master socket (modem to wallsocket is 0.25m = obsessed) and run a long Ethernet cable to a WAP in the centre of the house now, for much improved wireless.
It's just that if you can run CW1308, then you could possibly run ethernet. Cat6 can be awkward to run as you have to be so extremely careful with the bends, it's sooo stiff and you'll knacker it if you try too hard. I use the 'minimum radius of a CD' as a general guide. I am running cat7 all over the place now in case I can ever get a cheap 10G switch going (for internal LAN traffic, obviously).
The problem with leaving the modem is I need a power socket and I don't have one nearby. Where I plan to move it I'll have everything hidden behind a fridge :)
I've laid cat6 without much care so I'm surprised you've been so careful. Will the signal loss be less on cat6 vs cw1308?
My connection isn't the best, 32mb sync banded.
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No, my point is that the signal loss will be zero, because the modem remains near the master socket. Then there is a run of Ethernet from the modem or router that goes to a switch or wireless access point which is located somewhere convenient for you. There will be no 'signal' on this run because the DSL signal stops at the modem or modem-router. Make sense?
Cat 6 UTP is a lot easier to run than cat6a / cat7 s/ftp with a full foil shield and individual shields round each pair which is incredibly stiff and thick and trying to force it will even break the shield. With utp it's more likely in my experience that kinking it will compromise the twist so creating a slight noise ingress vulnerability.
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The problem with leaving the modem is I need a power socket and I don't have one nearby. Where I plan to move it I'll have everything hidden behind a fridge :)
Hmm . . . Behind a fridge. I wonder if that is going to be a rather noisy environment for xDSL equipment. What about switch-on current surges, etc, caused by the compressor's motor?
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Hmm . . . Behind a fridge. I wonder if that is going to be a rather noisy environment for xDSL equipment. What about switch-on current surges, etc, caused by the compressor's motor?
Potentially yes, difficult to test.
Maybe in that case I'll run cat6. Then if the modem syncs worse I can move the modem back and hook up the cat6 to the router.
The terminations would be behind the fridge and the equipment sitting on top of the fridge.
I would have thought the fridge is more of a faraday cage being a metal box pretty much.
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It is bound to be worse, running DSL signal over an extra length inside an electrical noisy environment such as a house, the question is, just by how much? Could be nearly zero. If it were me, I wouldn't take the chance, and always keep the modem right at the master socket. I am so obsessed - what with my very weak signal voltage and very clean outside noise environment - that I have even ensured that there is no signal run from the outside world to the master socket inside the house, that is, the line comes straight in by a window (along a radius towards the house) and immediately into an NTE5. From there there is 0.25m or 0.5m of cw1308 cable or shielded-but-not-grounded AdslNation/Tandy cable into the modem and then the story is over. Completely. I said it was obsessive. :-)
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For DSL frequencies is there really a benefit in Cat 6 or better rather than Cat 5? Cat 6 etc is significantly more demanding in installation terms such as minimum bend radius and susceptibility to kinking (don't use tie wraps for example).
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I've given up with DLM, I'm banded and my connection has headroom, so I suspect I will lose no speed.
I have CAT5 spare, so I'll use that to wire the phone extension.
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Well, I tried.
If I can't persuade you to do the right thing -
Don't you need an RJ-11 plug at the modem end? In which case you need a suitable long Tandy RJ11-RJ11 or runitdirect RJ45-RJ11 cable so the plugs will fit properly.
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The terminations would be behind the fridge and the equipment sitting on top of the fridge.
I would have thought the fridge is more of a faraday cage being a metal box pretty much.
You are going to put your modem in a bad place, as well as radiated noise you get high level of electrical noise cumming through the mains to your modem.
What about leaving the modem where it is and put an 13 amp mains socket there instead of putting the modem next to a noise source eg. the fridge !.
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I just have to say this is a huge mistake on so many levels. But I will shut up now. Signing off.
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You are going to put your modem in a bad place, as well as radiated noise you get high level of electrical noise cumming through the mains to your modem.
What about leaving the modem where it is and put an 13 amp mains socket there instead of putting the modem next to a noise source eg. the fridge !.
It was the original plan to put a mains socket near the modems current home, it's just more work. But I see what you are all saying so I'll consider it now. I would have thought these devices had enough shielding to not have to worry too much about this.
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I would have thought these devices had enough shielding to not have to worry too much about this.
They do for the average setup. I wouldn't class behind the fridge as the average modem setup. I would put the fridge right beside an electrical cooker (any 13a appliance to be honest) on a list of where not to put my modem or any cable carrying the VDSL2 signal.
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I came o with a way to keep the modem where it is, so I'm just running a cat6 from it to the fridge where ill put the router.
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Placing router anywhere near the fridge is a bad idea :-X
In or outside any metal cabinet will impair the signal see link below
https://www.quora.com/Why-doesnt-WiFi-work-in-a-metallic-enclosure
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Placing router anywhere near the fridge is a bad idea :-X
In or outside any metal cabinet will impair the signal see link below
https://www.quora.com/Why-doesnt-WiFi-work-in-a-metallic-enclosure
I'll test a file transfer between 2 PCs over wifi with the router on top of the fridge.
I would suspect that close to the fridge the signal might be impaired since it'll not go through metal, but then we have signal reflections also. I won't put it in the fridge lol.
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Moved the router so it's on top of the fridge. Everything working just as good and wifi signal gives me full internet speed everywhere in the house now. All PCs are wired so not fussed about local transfer speeds.
The HG612 is still connected to the master socket by the front door.
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I'm pleased to read that everything is operating well and you are satisfied with the result.