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[tubaman]

.... What I could try to start is connect broadband to 1st extension and then disconnect all the next daisy chained one taking them out of the equation. I wonder if this would help.

It should do, as as burakkucat said you'd then be a the end of the chain so no bridge tap.
Another option, when you get your filtered faceplate, would be to split the extensions in the wiring, so run the first one from 'AB' on the filtered faceplate  (ie unfiltered) and the subsequent ones from the filtered side of the faceplate. If your extension wiring is only four core then this would mean the other extensions only had two wires, but you could continue to use the rat-tail filters to add the bell wire back in. Not an ideal solution but might be easier than trying to rearrange everything.

[rugby675]

Just realised a standard filtered faceplate only allows voice to any extensions and data must be connected to the master socket only. Back to the drawing board then

[meritez]

How far is the distance between the master socket and the closest electrical socket?

[jelv]

Check the wire between the master socket and the first extension. If it is 4-core you can do as tubaman suggests using the filtered faceplate on the master.

[tubaman]

Just realised a standard filtered faceplate only allows voice to any extensions and data must be connected to the master socket only. Back to the drawing board then

A lot of filtered faceplates have 'AB' connections on them that allow you to take an unfiltered connection to an extension as per my previous post. All of the Openreach ones have this and some, but not all, from other makes.
Here they are on an NTE5A faceplate:

[rugby675]

How far is the distance between the master socket and the closest electrical socket?

The distance is only a few metres but it's not a straight run, my front door is in-between so would need to run the cable around the top of the door. The alternative is up the stairs to my living room where the next extension is anyway.

[Weaver]

It’s just a matter of choosing the correct terminals inside the good master SSFP (filtered faceplate), as Tubaman said.

About the unfortunate lack of any mains close by. You can book Openreach to do something called ’change point of entry’. The should cost about £120 but then the DSL will come into the house from outside exactly where you want it to be, and that can be in a suitable out of the way place where there is mains for a modem. If you’re using a wireless access point either that or a combined wireless router ie router and wireless access point combined then you can have freedom to park it wherever is best for centralised signal coverage in the premises. Sometimes people end up with the wireless hardware in a really useless place for good centralised signal coverage because that is where the master socket randomly happened to be, and wireless and modem are in the one box, not separated or cabling between the two isn’t convenient.

[burakkucat]

The wiring currently is master socket to socket 1 living room to socket 2 living room to socket 3 bedroom. The phone is on socket 1 and router on socket 2, nothing connected to master or socket 3.

It is the cable from socket 2 (living room) to socket 3 (in bedroom) which is the bridging tap.

Should be able to get a filtered faceplate early next week.

Once fitted, sockets 1, 2 & 3 will become telephony only. The modem/router would have to be connected directly to the centralised filter (SSFP). If you do not use socket 3, in the bedroom, the simplest solution would be to disconnect the wiring running to it from socket 2. Do that and the bridging tap is removed.

[gt94sss2]

Just to confirm that in your current setup both socket 1 and 2 are both filtered?

[rugby675]

Yes both filtered, nothing in socket 3 at end of chain. I'll probably disconnect socket 3. Would plugging in a filter remove the tap also or does it need a telephony or DSL device terminated to remove?

[burakkucat]

Yes both filtered, nothing in socket 3 at end of chain. I'll probably disconnect socket 3.

That would be the simplest solution.

Would plugging in a filter remove the tap also or does it need a telephony or DSL device terminated to remove?

No to both parts of the question.

One needs to think of the metallic pathway in terms of a radio frequency transmission line, operating in differential mode, and not as a means of providing a voltage at some point "x". There are two transceiver units at each end of the transmission line; the VTU-C (at the cabinet DSLAM) and the VTU-R (your modem/router connected at socket 2). If the transmission line was perfect there would be no ingress or egress of radio frequency energy. Unfortunately that is not the case. The biggest current defect is a bridging tap, connected at socket 2, which is acting as a tuned stub. That tuned stub causes both reflections and absorptions of the energy at various radio frequencies.

[rugby675]

Ok so made a couple of changes this morning once the house had emptied  . Extension 3 now disconnected, and router now connected to last extension (which I had the wrong way around so there was actually 2 unused extensions after the router, not 1). Everything working fine so know wiring should be correct. Upload speed immediately synced at 20 Mbps but download remains at 63, I suppose it's a waiting game now to see if the interleaving drops over the coming days and weeks. Will pick up a MK4 faceplate later so still thinking of how to rewire everything without losing phone as well.

[jelv]

Have you checked how many cores there are in the cable from master to first extension?

[rugby675]

8 core I believe, orange/white orange, blue, white/blue, green, white/green, brown, white/brown. Most of these unused however.

[jelv]

Excellent! If what you have done so far is not effective in resolving your issues (there's a good chance it will be), the next step will not be too difficult.

Edit: Does anyone know of a ready made extension box with sockets for telephone and ADSL extended from A+B on the filtered master?