Print

Please login or register.
1 Hour 1 Day 1 Week 1 Month Forever
Login with username, password and session length

[Dray]

Not going to exchange, it takes too long and we need the internet, even a 3 hour shortage is loss of £££.

So buy a new RT-AC68 and take back the DSL-AC68 at your leisure, or flog it on ebay, or write it off.

I see Amazon prime have a few for next day delivery (Weds)

Of course a diagram would help, so would photos

[thesmileyone]

So I set a 6DB something or other... can't remember what. Something to do with SNR. It seems to have stabalised only 400 crc over 24 hours.

https://s22.postimg.org/b4i75jgz5/Screenshot_from_2016_10_12_08_11_56.png

However DNS is incredibly slow, took 2 mins to resolve forum.kitz.co.uk so going to change them to Google DNS I think.

Still not using the HG612, I have no instructions how to just use the Asus as a router?

Got a guy coming later in the week to wire the house with cat cable. Do I need cat5, cat5e or cat6? Going to get them to check the master faceplate and all of the extensions also and advise/fix depending on cost.

[Weaver]

You need an SSFP (faceplate) and to have a short, quality cable from the faceplate to the modem. If you wire the extensions into the faceplate's filtered extension terminals then it doesn't matter what the extension wiring is like.

Don't wire your modem to a filtered extension. It won't work at all. Move your modem to be near to your master socket.

The Tandyonline RJ11-RJ11 modem-to-wallsocket cable is what I use. I use the shortest possible length.

If you absolutely cannot have your modem near your master socket, then there are a couple of ways of dealing with that. You can either get the master socket moved, or you can connect _special extension wiring_ to the _unfiltered_ terminals on the SSFP. (Cat5e) Hassle.

Or if you have a separate modem and router, you could park the modem right next to the master socket and use a length of long cat5e to the router. Cat6 is better but stiff and more difficult to work with. It's important not to bend catX network cables at all as you will damage them.

[Weaver]

As for wiring the house with network cable generally, from your router or switch to PCs, as I said earlier CAT6 is better, double-screened is better still, but cat5e is much easier to work with. I use CAT6a double-screened and CAT6 in my office and wireless LAN elsewhere.

Make sure to keep all cables away from mains.

[skyeci]

I wired my house over time myself with Cat5e. I didn't really see the point of installing cat6 as my internet connection is only around 60-70mbps. 5E was much easier to install (even with the external grade I needed to use in places) and with everything connected at gigabit on my lan I think it will be fine for years to come. Until we see much higher internet connected speeds its probably not worth the hassle with cat6 - very difficult to get round corners too lol..

[thesmileyone]

This is what my current setup looks like. Please excuse the image quality. This is the only openreach branded socket I can find in the house.

[thesmileyone]

Is this what I need? https://www.run-it-direct.co.uk/mk4btopenreachvdslsocket.html We are relocating the master socket from the current room to the lounge, and only require one socket for phone (because it is cordless with multiple handsets). I am now running an ECI modem using the DSL-AC68u as a router only, this combo is working great gone from 32 ping to 20 ping, 1.9mbps down to 32mbps down and "unable to test upload speed" to 5.8mbps up. Not as great as the old house which was further away from the cabinet but had 52mbps down, 12mbps up and a ping of 6!! I think it is because they seem to run power wires next to the telephone wires here?

I am okish happy with the speeds, big thanks for all your help, just need to sort my wiring out now. I am probably going to do FTTP in the future or maybe a leased line if leased line suppliers can give me FTTPoD from a g.fast cabinet when it arrives here?

[Weaver]

That mk4 SSFP plus NTE (i.e. faceplate + master socket) is the newest and most user-friendly one, and it will be good for VDSL2 (=FTTC) too so it's future-proof.

To fit it, as it is a new master-socket, you will legally have to get an Openreach engineer, as no one else is allowed to touch the wiring behind a master socket. But since you're relocating the master socket anyway, just get the whole thing fitted at the time, as you said.

If you have a choice of where to park the master socket, keep the length of house-internal wiring from the outside world to the master socket to a minimum, as that reduces the chance of it picking up any interference. And always keep the modem near to the master socket. The length of other network cabling, such as modem-to-router cabling and network cabling between router / switch and pcs doesn't matter as this will all be reliable CATX cabling which is interference-proof as long as it is not next to mains or if it's double-screened/shielded (very interference-proof).

Of course, many people don't have such an easy choice of where to park kit. But it's fine to separate modem and router by a long distance, if you want to. Just use highest quality CATx network cable for the job.

As for house-internal wiring to the master-socket, the engineer should be using the proper BT-spec twisted-pair cabling for this, and nothing less. This is very important. It's recommended to use a real OpenReach engineer, to stay legal and for peace of mind. Someone will remind me of the BT part code for this type of twisted-pair cable.