Mission accomplished.
Got off to a dubious start, the crossing out from Ullapool was forecast to be very stormy, with a warning it might be cancelled. The crossing back to Skye was in doubt, as MV Hebrides had just crashed into a jetty and run aground. Day one on on Lewis was beyond a joke, with torrential rain and 50mph winds. Forecast was for things to get worse, winds strengthening to 70mph and a bleak few days.
But somebody up there was on my side. The stormy crossing wasn't at all uncomfortable, MV Loch Seaforth being a modern and very stable vessel. The passenger accommodation was great too, more akin to good business class airline than an old fashioned ferry. The 70mph winds never materialised, instead winds abated completely and the sun came out rendering glorious Indian Summer conditions. And just in time for our return, Calmac managed to reschedule MV Clansman to fill in for damaged MV Hebrides.
Harris & Lewis had not changed a lot since my last visit, 30 odd years ago. The roads were a little busier, but also a little better. You just kind of feel yourself moving down a gear, not just on the roads but psychologically. Time somehow passes with better quality. I am truly envious of those who live there.
I was worried about the 'new' visitor centre at Callanish Stones, mindful of the fate that has befallen Stonehenge, with its visitor centre that turns what used to be a one hour visit into a very expensive whole wasted day. No need to worry, still no admission charge at Callanish and the visitor centre is entirely optional, though worth taking in as it has a great little cafe/tearoom.
Skye also lived up to expectations, though everywhere seemed an awful lot busier, I guess that's the price paid for replacing the chain ferry with a bridge. Still a wonderful place though, with incredible scenery around every bend in every road.
Only real disappointment, while I thoroughly liked the rest of Skye, was our night in Portree. Quite badly overcrowded, most of the eateries were cramming people into sweaty little rooms with mediocre service, again I guess, a price paid for the bridge? And at night, groups of youths roamed the streets til 1am, harmless enough, but with raised voices and shouting that made sleep impossible. That may just be a reflection of modern pub opening hours but as well as being angry at loss of sleep, I found it rather sad, as it destroys my memories of a tranquil little hamlet. And on a positive note I suppose it also infers a degree of prosperity as I assume the youths had money to spend in the bars, so maybe the bridge has brought some benefits too?
All in all, I thoroughly recommend.
